Assyrian army

Assyrian army

Friday, 5 June 2020

Some conversions I'm working on...

Definitely on a conversion streak at the moment!

This lot are all initial testers to prove the concepts - they'll be painted  to see how they look, then I'll make a few more of the ones chosen for production. The best of those will be used in moulds.

From left to right: Arabian archer, generic Syrian archer, Lycian marine (love this figure!) and early Persian cavalryman (though in deference to early S Range designation I generally call them Medes...)

The Arabian is identified by the belted cloak. The Syrian (or possibly Jewish) archer may be (in this 70s version of the Ancient world) more appropriate in a Successor army. The top half of the figure is from an early conversion specifically made to act as a base for future conversions.

Starting on various versions of Lybians. Hate using green stuff - it's sticky and not easy to mould, even if I do (sometimes) try to follow internet hints on how to use it... I have a massive amount of respect for people who do really complicated and detailed sculpts with the stuff!
Really just starting - this lot need new heads and cloaks and will become Lycian marines - but think I'll prefer the one based on G3. Most of my efforts will probably be on Libyans though - and Philistines. Hollywood style perhaps - G3 hoplite with a head swap...

4 comments:

  1. Nice to see these - I know what you mean about Green Stuff being 'sticky' and in some ways I do prefer Milliput - I think the 'Grey Stuff' Procreate is a bit easier to get on with though it's essentially similar. I know at least one figure sculptor who mixes Milliput and Green Stuff together. I guess it's what you're used to.

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    1. I'm tending to use it as soon as it's mixed - might try seeing if letting it 'set' slightly makes it easier to handle but not really expecting it - I'll keep repeating that I have total respect for those people who have the knack to produce quality detailed work with it!

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    2. Yup - let it cure a little - mix up some more - then you'll have a batch that's workable once the first one gets too stiff - as it cures on the model it 'relaxes' a bit so what you thought looked nice and sharp suddenly doesn't - so you have to go back and keep re-working it as it cures to keep the sharp edges. You can carefully scrape back edges to put an edge back but it's slow work either way.

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